In the early Middle Ages the town was built within Diocletian's Palace. Commercial
prosperity of the 13th and the 14th centuries spurred a more intense construction;
the town spread outside the Palace, and a new centre developed along the western
walls of the Palace which was fortified in the 14th century, and in the 17th
century a new defence system with projecting bastions, constructed by A. Magli,
was erected. Field labourers quarters Veli Varos and Lucac developed to the
north and the east of the town, which later merged with the nucleus of the old
town into a whole. Between the two World Wars the city expanded over the southern
slopes of Marjan and to the eastern part Bacvice, where a modern part of the
city was constructed. During the Second World War Split was heavily bombed,
particularly the coastal part southeast of the Palace of Diocletian (today's
park). Since the 1950s Split has been characterized by a sudden spatial expansion
(new blocks, the so-called Split III and other).
The Old Town (Grad). The oldest nucleus of Split is located
within the walls of Diocletian's Palace. According to its dimensions and level
of preservation, the Palace represents the most valuable example of Roman architecture
on the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. It was constructed around AD 300 and
has a rectangular ground-plan. Its form and arrangement of the buildings within
the Palace represent a transitional style of an imperial villa, Hellenistic
town and Roman camp. The southern, seaward side of the Palace (181 m long),
with subsequent annexes, can be viewed from the coast. The Brass Gate (Porta
Aenea), a vaulted passage leading from the sea into the interior of the Palace,
are in the middle of the southern side. To the left is the entrance into the
cellars of Diocletian's Palace, with a system of corridors and halls under the
southern parts of the Palace which can be visited by tourists. Walking along
the eastern side of the Palace one reaches the Silver Gate (Porta Argentea)
with the church of St. Dominic on the opposite side, which was first mentioned
in the 13th century. Its present aspect dates from 1682, and it was reconstructed
between 1932 and 1934; it contains Baroque altars, the paintings representing
the Miracle in Surian (Jacopo Palma the Younger) and The Apparition in the Temple
(Palma's school), and a wooden Gothic cross. Through the Silver Gate one reaches
the Plain of King Tomislav. Passing by the small Renaissance church of St. Roch
(Rocco) (1516) one arrives to the Peristyle (Peristil), the central open-air
area of the Palace. Its longitudinal sides are surrounded by an arched colonnade;
the arches in the west are closed by Gothic and Renaissance houses. A monumental
port with four columns carrying a gable closes the Peristyle in the south. Between
the columns of the entrance two chapels were built in, Our Lady of the Belt
(1544) and Our Lady of Conception (1650). The mausoleum of Diocletian, today's
Cathedral of St. Doimus (Dujam) (dedicated to St. Mary) lies in the eastern
part of the Peristyle. The mausoleum has almost completely preserved its original
octagonal form, encircled by 24 columns (peripteral) which were bearing the
roof; the interior is round, with two rows of Corinthian columns and a frieze
(medallions with figures of Emperor Diocletian and his wife Prisca). A dome,
once covered with mosaics, roofs the mausoleum. The monumental wooden gateposts
(reliefs with scenes from the life of Christ), a work by Andrija Buvina (1214),
and the stone pulpit from the 13th century represent the oldest monuments in
the Cathedral. The altar on the right, with a late Gothic baldachin, was made
by Bonino da Milano (1427). The vault above the altar is decorated with mural
paintings, a work by Dujam Vuskovic (15th c.). the altar of St. Anastasius (Stas),
made by George of Dalmatia (Juraj Dalmatinac) in 1448 is to the left (the predella
features an excellent central scene of the Flagellation). The chapel in the
northern wall accommodates the Baroque altar of St. Doimus, a work by the Venetian
sculptor G. M. Morlaiter (1767); the vault of the chapel is decorated with paintings
by M. Capogrossa. The main altar dates from the 13th century; the vault above
it is ornamented with paintings by M. Poncun; a wooden Gothic cross from the
14th century rises above the altar. The choir, constructed in the 18th century,
is furnished with Romanesque seating from the 13th century (the oldest in Dalmatia)
and ornamented with a painting re-presenting the Mother of God with the saints
and donors, a work by J. Palma the Younger, as well as with Baroque paintings
by M. Poncun. A crypt lies under the Cathedral. A building with a sacristy and
treasury leans on the Cathedral. The treasury keeps a collection of gold artefacts
and mass vestments from the Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque per-iods; the most
valuable pieces include a ciborium from 1522, the 8th-century evangelistary
(the oldest manuscript in the country), the 11th-century Supetar chartulary
and Historia Salonitana by Thomas the Archdeacon from the 13th century. Three
Romanesque reliefs from the 13th century were built into the foot of the belfry
towards the main entrance; the peripteral construction accommodates several
sarcophagi from the 9th to the 15th centuries. The Romanesque belfry was erected
between the 12th and the 16th centuries, collapsed at the end of the 19th century
and reconstructed in 1908. Two Romanesque lion figures lie at the foot of the
belfry, and the right wall is decorated with an Egyptian black granite sphinx
(15th c. BC).
A small temple rises opposite the mausoleum, probably dedicated to Jupiter,
turned into the baptistery in the early Middle Ages. Only the closed part of
the temple (cella) with a richly decorated portal has been preserved; the interior
is roofed with a barrel coffered vault. The baptismal font was framed with stone
plates in the 19th century, decorated with "pleter" - interlacery
ornamentation (the central plate represents a figure of a Croatian ruler on
the throne). The baptistery features the sarcophagus of Ivan Ravenjanin (following
the tradition of the first archbishop of Split) from the 7th century and the
statue of John the Baptist (Ivan Mestrovic). A Renaissance sarcophagus (1533)
is in front of the baptistery. The foundations of the building in front of the
baptistery contain a stone arch with the astragal motif (7th c.), the oldest
known monument of mediaeval Split.
Diocletian's Street runs from the Peristyle to the north where the Golden Gate
(Porta Aurea) rises; Agubio Palace, with a Gothic portal and inner yard is to
the left. To the right, in Papaliceva Street, Papalic Palace (15th c.), the
most important example of Gothic architecture in Split (richly ornamented portal,
big tetrastyle on the southern end, original Gothic ceiling in the main hall)
is located; architectonic details bear distinctive marks of Juraj Dalmatinac's
workshop. The palace accommodates the Museum of the City of Split. A Romanesque
house is immediately in front of the Golden Gate, to the left; its northern
Gothic end is ascribed to Juraj Dalmatinac. A side-street leads through the
stairs to the church of St. Martin, situated in a part of the hall above the
Golden Gate; the church features a stone altar partition, with "pleter"
(interlacery ornamentation) and an 11th-century inscription. The way through
the Golden Gate leads to an open area, with the statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory
of Nin) rising on an elevation, erected in 1957 (Ivan Mestrovic, 1929). The
little park northwest of the gate accommodated the remains of the church of
St. Euphemia (first mentioned in 1069; collapsed in the fire of 1877), on which
a Benedictine nuns' monastery used to lean. The foundations of a three-nave
church (11th c.), the chapel of St. Arnir, built by Juraj Dalmatinac in 1445,
and the belfry have been preserved.
Kresimir Street leads from the Peristyle to the Iron Gate (Porta Ferrea) in
the west; Cindro Palace (17th c.), the most beautiful Baroque palace in Split,
rises to the right. The hall in the wall above the Iron Gate houses the small
church of Our Lady of the Belfry (Bar-oque altar, By--zan----tine icon dating
from around the 11th c., wall paintings by Mene-ghello from 1412). The Ro-ma-nesque
belfry (aro-und 1100) is the oldest one in Dalmatia. Through the Iron Gate one
reaches the square Na-rodni Trg (Piaca), centre of the mediaeval commune and
the liveliest sq-uare- of today's Split. A clock-tower (16th c.) rises above
the Iron Gate, overlooking the squa-re. Of the Gothic ho-uses which used to
close the northern end of the square only the Town Hall (1443), with a loggia
in the ground floor, has survived; the first floor, expanded in 1820, was refurbished
in neo-Gothic style at the end of the 19th century. The building houses the
Ethnographic Museum (folk costumes from Dalmatia). To the right of the Town
Hall, over a small bridge, the Renaissance Karepic Palace from the 16th century
is situated, and the Gothic Cambi Palace from the 15th century is located in
the north-western end of the square. The house in the south-western end has
a relief depicting St. Anthony the Abbot (1394) built in the façade.
Domald Street runs northwards, with a Renaissance portal from 1583 through which
the way to the former church and monastery of St. Mary de Taurello leads; fragments
of the Renaissance cloister ha-ve been preserved. Trogir Street branches off
to the left of Domald Street, in which a small Gothic church of the Holy Spirit
is situated, with a Romanesque relief featuring Christ on the Throne above the
churchyard portal and the tomb of the sculptor Andrija Alesi. Subiceva Street
runs from the western end of Narodni Trg to the south; the small late Gothic
Papalic Palace (15th c.) is to the right, built by Juraj Dalmatinac, and the
Baroque Tartaglia Palace lies further down the street. Su-biceva Street terminates
on Braca Radic Square, with the Marko Marulic statue (Ivan Mestrovic) rising
in the centre of the square. Milesi Palace, early Baroque, closes the northern
end of the square, and the so-called Hrvoje's Tower, the remain of the Venetian
citadel from the 15th century, rises in the south. Through the passage in the
tower one reaches the coast.
Western part (Veli Varos, Marjan, Meje). A small square with
the mo-nastery and church of St. Francis are situated on a small square in the
western part of the coast. The monastery was established in the 13th century.
The church, reconstructed in the 19th century, keeps a Gothic cross, Gothic
-wooden sculpture of St. Lucia (15th c.), tombs of the historian Thomas the
Archdeacon (around 1200-1268), the writers Marko Marulic (1450-1524) and Jerolim
Kavanjin (1641-1714), and the composer Ivan Lukacic (1584- 1648) in the choir,
as well as several Baroque paintings and sculptures. A Gothic cloister leans
on the church. North of the church, on a slope of Marjan, lies Veli Varos, with
its thick network of streets and picturesque scenery. From Krizeva Street to
the left through the Stagnija, an interesting church, St. Nicholas (Mikula)
from the 12th century is situated, and to the right of the cross-roads the parish
church of the Holy Cross (17th c., expanded in the 19th c.) with a Baroque bell
tower; the church has a painted Gothic cross, a Gothic sculpture of the Virgin
Mary with Child as well as several Baroque paintings. Senjska Street leads along
the slopes of Marjan to the Marjan Stairway, and then ascends mildly to the
left (offering a beautiful view on the port of Split) to the church of St. Nich-olas
dating from the 13th century. The stairs on the right run to the Natural Science
Museum, with a zoological garden near it. From this point, the way leads to
Marjan. The road descending westwards from the vista point on Marjan (about
1 km) reaches an expanded intersection (Sedlo); the small church of Our Lady
of Bethlehem from the 15th century is further down to the right, on the top
of a picturesque staircase. From the church, around the next bend, a road branching
off westwards runs to the small church of St. Jerome (Jere) from the 15th century
(a relief by A. Alesi); a former cave is situated near the church.
Along the promenade from the church of St. Francis the way leads to Hotel Marjan
(designed by L. Perkovic) and then further to Split ACI Marina. A way branches
off to the left leading to the picturesque small Sustipan peninsula, where once
a Benedictine monastery (established around 1000, abandoned in the 14th c.)
and the church of St. Stephen (ruins) used to stand.
At the beginning of the 19th century the cemetery and the classicist pavilion
were erected. The present church of St. Stephan was built in 1814 (a Gothic
polyptych from the 15th c. with the Nativity on the predella). Fragments originating
from the early Romanesque and Romanesque churches were built in the church and
the walls encompassing the graveyard. The road leads westwards through the part
of the city called Meje. The Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments - the
major institution of Croatian culture - is located to the right along Gunja-cina
Street which runs to the Marjan Tunnel. The most distinguished of several villas
found there is the Mestrovic Gallery.
The Mestrovic Citadel lies further to the west, along the lower end of the
road, once a palace of the Capogrosso-Kavanjin families (17th c.). A chapel
housing a cycle of Mestrovic's reliefs in wood is situated within the complex
surrounded by a high wall. The road leads to Cape Marjan, where the Institute
of Oceanography and Fishery and its aquarium are situated. On the way to the
Institute one can see the ruins of an early mediaeval church of St. Jerome,
built probably on the remains of an ancient temple.
Northern part (Dobri, Poljud). Marmontova Street runs from
the western end of the Coast of the Croatian National Revival to the north,
where the Bulatova Poljana lies; Splitske Toplice, a thermal bath, is to the
right, and the wall of a 17th-century bastion is to the left. The Luka Botic
monument (Ivan Mestrovic) stands on the Poljana. The western end of the square
is closes by the building of the Croatian National Theatre (1893), and the northern
with the church of Our Lady of Health (1937, architectural design by L. Horvat;
fresco by I. Dulcic); the 17th-century belfry used to be part of an earlier
church. Zrinsko-Frankopanska Street runs behind the theatre to the north, and
Lovretska Street, with the Art Gallery and the Archaeological Museum further
left, branches off to the right. The interesting pre-Romanesque small church
of the Holy Trinity, with a six-foil ground-plan, lies not far from the Park
of the Youth, which can be reached by passing a block of new houses. The large
Hajduk football stadium, in form of a shell, of bold structures, one of the
most original constructions of the kind in the world, is opposite of the church.
Swimming pools are located by the st-adium as well as the Poljud monastery.
The church dating from the 15th century possesses a Gothic (15th c.) and a Baroque
cross (Fulgencije Bakotic), and a polyptych by Girolamo da Santacroce (1549).
The Renaissance cloister accommodated tombstones of the Split patrician families.
The monastery keeps the portrait of the Split humanist Tomo Niegro (Lorenzo
Lotto, 1527) and two bands of chorales with illuminations by Bono Razmilovic
(17th c.).
Eastern part (Lucac, Bacvice). Railway and bus terminals as
well as the ship and ferry port facilities are located on the Kneza Domagoja
Coast. A massive lighthouse, with a relief by Andre Krstulovic, rises on the
forested elevation at the end of the port. The way from Diocletian's Palace
over the bridge above the railway leads to the "Bishop's" Palace in
neo-Renaissance style. -Kralja Zvonimira Street runs from the Palace to the
east, accommodating the monastery and church of St. Clare the monastery holds
a Romanesque crucifix (13th c.), several icons as well as Renaissance and Baroque
paintings by Venetian masters. The former suburb Lucac, with its narrow, steep
alleys and picturesque blocks of irregularly shaped houses, is to the north
of the Bishop's Palace. The Gripe fortress, erected in the 17th century, is
on the top of the elevation. The Bacvice quarter, famous for its recently reconstructed
public beach and Hotel Park, lies east of the railway station.
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