Queen Elizabeth’s Favourite Palace
A third of a million people a year visit the former Royal Palace at Gödöllo
(D5). One of Hungary’s finest mansions, and less than an hour’s
drive from the capital, it was built in the eighteenth century for one Antal
Grassalkovich, a legal official who in a most remarkable career rose to be one
of the most influential aristocrats and keeper of the Hungarian treasury. Grassalkovich
amassed a huge family fortune and had several other mansions built, but it is
the elegant creation at Gödöllo, one of the very finest of the baroque
style, that went on to be used as the inspiration for others around Hungary.
Empress Maria Theresa was a frequent guest, but it was later, during the reign
of Franz Joseph, that it became the favoured Hungarian residence for the Austro-Hungarian
Royal family. The Emperor’s wife, the hugely admired Queen Elizabeth,
affectionately known as Sisi, especially loved Gödöllo.
These days the main wing of the Palace once again greets visitors with suitable
grandeur, and altogether twenty-six rooms have been restored and opened to the
public, including the royal apartments, the grand hall and Franz Joseph’s
study. Concerts and cultural festivals are regularly held in the Palace and
in its grand courtyard. The baroque theatre, a rarity in Europe, has also been
restored, and after 200 years, has once again become a working theatre.
Hungary’s Richest Plant Collection
Lovers of nature in general and plant life in particular should head for a well-loved
beauty spot, Vácrátót (C5), where in the protected environment
of the botanical gardens (covering 70 acres) 13,000 different species of plants
can be seen.
Fine Example of Hungarian Romantic Style
The sight of the twin towers of the nineteenth century Catholic church will
announce from quite far off that a traveller is approaching Fót (C5).
One of the finest examples of Hungarian Romantic style, it is well worth visiting,
not least to see its painted panelled roof and crypt with Carrara marble statues.
The town’s second major attraction is the Károlyi Mansion, whose
Grand Hall and park are venues for cultural events. Concerts are also held in
the church.
European Nostra Prize-winning Village
The village of Ócsa (C7), not far from Budapest, was awarded a prestigious
European Nostra Prize in 1996 for its work in preserving its old buildings.
The thirteenth century Calvinist church is one of the most important surviving
examples of Romanesque architecture in Hungary, and thanks to its excellent
acoustics is a popular venue for choral and organ concerts.
Also noteworthy are the hundred or so strangely-shaped wine cellars, the rare
flora and fauna that thrive in the nearby marshy areas, and the Village Ethnographic
Museum situated in one of the old reed-thatched peasant houses.
Formula One
There has been motor sport in Hungary since the early 1900s, when the first
automobile club was set up. In 1912 the first international car race took place.
Today, at Mogyoród (C5) just to the east of Budapest, the Hungaroring
circuit is the only Formula One racetrack in Central Europe, and each year in
August it is tested to the limits by the world’s best racing drivers,
attracting crowds in their hundreds of thousands. On the other hand, the Hungarokart
go-carting centre is open all year to followers of that sport.
Hungary’s Only Triumphal Arch
The town of Vác (C4), on the Danube’s left bank, has a proud past
stretching back a thousand years. The bishopric was founded by King Saint Stephen;
there is also a neo-classical cathedral and bishop’s palace.
One of the finest baroque squares in Hungary is situated here – the 15th
of March Square – and contains several noteworthy listed buildings. In
the crypt of the Dominican church the “Memento Mori” exhibition
is unique in all Europe. Coffins and their entire contents dating from the eighteenth
century have been mummified by the peculiar climatic conditions in which they
have lain.
Vác also possesses Hungary’s only baroque bridge decorated with
statues, and its only triumphal arch, built for a visit of the Hapsburg Empress
Maria Theresa.
Hungary’s Only Lamp Museum
A short distance to the west of Budapest is Zsámbék (A6), best
known for its thirteenth century church ruin. It came to grief in an earthquake
in the eighteenth century, but the towers and walls that are still standing
present an interesting sight and an unusual venue for the annual summer festival
of theatre and music. The village’s other main attraction is the unique
collection of the Lamp Museum.
Journey to the Distant Past
At the town of Százhalombatta (B7) on the right bank of the Danube, the
main attraction is the skansen. Here, by one of the hundred Iron Age tumuli
that give the place its name, visitors can travel back in time to see Bronze
and Iron Age dwellings, and can themselves fashion utensils and jewellery using
contemporary methods.
A Paradise for Fishing and Water Sports
The Ráckeve branch of the Danube, to the south of Budapest, was once
a favourite royal hunting ground; today it is home to many rare birds and plants
and is also one of the most popular spots for fishing. In the town of Ráckeve
(B8), Hungary’s earliest baroque mansion can be visited, along with the
only Serbian Orthodox church dating from the fifteenth century.
Recruiting to the Sound of Drums
It is strangely appropriate that one should find Hungary’s only drum museum
in the same town – Cegléd (E8) – as that in which the great
Hungarian politician and patriot, Lajos Kossuth, began recruiting for the 1848
Revolution of which he was to become leader. A statue of Kossuth today stands
in the town, and a museum is devoted to his life and work. Cegléd is
home to Central Europe’s largest neo-classical Calvinist church, and is
the venue for an annual international drum and percussion festival that also
puts to use some of the special instruments on show in the drum museum.
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