Pest-on the Streets of World Heritage
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Reviewed by:
Editorial Staff
Rating: |
Fast-Growing Metropolis
From the middle of the nineteenth century
Budapest underwent an unprecedented surge of building and expansion. In contrast
with other European capital cities, whose transformation into a modern metropolis
was the continuation of a long period of historical growth, Budapest attained
world status and became largely what we know today over a period of only 40
to 50 years. This was not entirely due to the economic growth of the time, but
also to disasters like the great floods of 1838, in which thousands of buildings
in Pest were ruined. A new, modern town grew up in their place. It was at this
time that the great avenues and boulevards were laid out. Some brave visionaries
even considered making what became the Great Boulevard (Nagykörút)
navigable, as it had once been a minor branch of the Danube. It was also in
the 1840s that the first gas lamp, a great wonder of the age, appeared on the
wall of the National Museum. Within a decade there were ten thousand of them
being supplied by Pest’s new gasworks. This was soon followed by the first
waterworks and, with the building of the Opera House, the Parliament and the
bridges, by the turn of the century Budapest had caught up with its old rival
Vienna.
Pioneering Air Conditioning in the Parliament
Town planners
and builders of the late nineteenth century were certainly fond of grandeur
and adornment – witness, for example, one of Europe’s most splendid
parliament buildings on the left bank of the Danube. The Eclectic building is
itself an example of the art of the period – with its Gothic towers, intricate
stonework and 88 statues on the outside, and its baroque grand staircase, frescoes,
mosaic windows, Gobelin tapestry and paintings inside.The cooling system for
the Parliament building was unique at the end of the 19th century. Air ventilation
tunnels were routed to the two fountains that were situated in the square in
front of the building, and the fresh air that was blown back into the chambers
was pleasantly cooled by water. When this system was later superseded much of
the tunnel work was bricked up, although some of the original air passages are
still in use today. In times of great heat, circulating air can be cooled by
huge quantities of ice.
On the Trail of World Heritage – by Number
Two Tram
The number two tram can be boarded in Kossuth Square in front
of the Parliament building: it is an excellent means of sightseeing. From its
windows the entire World Heritage section of the Danube panorama of both Buda
and Pest can be seen. First stop is Roosevelt Square, by the Chain Bridge, where
stands the 1860’s neo-Renaissance edifice of the Hungarian Academy of
Science. Next door is one of the finest art nouveau buildings, the Gresham Palace.
It was the city’s largest residential structure (130,000 square feet)
when it was built in 1907 for the English Gresham Life Assurance Company. After
the First World War a coffee house opened on the ground floor which became a
favourite meeting place for progressive- thinking intelligentsia and artists
in the 1920s and 30s. The building has recently undergone extensive restoration
and now houses the city’s most elegant luxury hotel.
The Continent’s
First Underground Railway
When Budapest’s first underground railway
opened for service in 1896 it was the first of its kind on the Continent, and
only the second after London. It conveyed passengers just below street level
from the City Centre to the City Park in around ten minutes. The twenty-foot
wide tunnel is supported by riveted iron pillars, and the restored stations
with their wooden ticket kiosks and ceramic tiled walls faithfully recall the
atmosphere of a century ago. The first set of coaches lasted in service for
eighty years, and an example of one is preserved in the Underground Museum.
After Budapest’s second Underground line was built, a deep-tunnel construction
called the Metró, the original one affectionately became known as the
“Little Underground”.
The Most Beautiful Example of City
Planning
The route of the original Little Underground follows that of
Budapest’s most elegant boulevard. Andrássy út represents
the pinnacle of Budapest’s late nineteenth century city planning. It is
also home to many of Pest’s theatres, including the imposing Opera House,
with its columns, statues and terraces, as well as the Operetta Theatre and
numerous others on neighbouring side streets. Just before the Oktogon is Liszt
Ferenc Square, a place that has in a short time become one of the capital’s
favourite pleasure grounds – filled with coffee houses, international
restaurants, club restaurants, musical bars and jazz clubs. In summer it seems
that half the city is here relaxing and enjoying itself at the outdoor tables.
Champion Archangel
Andrássy út terminates opposite
one of the best known groups of statues in Hungary, the Millenary Monument at
Heroes’ Square. Construction began in 1896, and the centrepiece is a 118-foot
Corinthian column supporting a 16-foot statue of the archangel Gabriel. In his
right hand he is holding the holy Hungarian crown, and in his left the double
Apostolic cross – just as he is supposed to have appeared in a dream to
Hungary’s first king.The statue won the Grand Prix at the 1900 Paris World
Exhibition. Around its base are equestrian statues of the seven chiefs of the
conquering Magyar tribes, and within the arched colonnades to the sides stand
bronze figures representing the most illustrious rulers of Hungarian History.
Largest
Collection of Fine Arts
Two opposite sides of Heroes’ Square are
taken up with fine neo-classical buildings. The Palace of Arts (Mucsarnok) is
Hungary’s largest fine arts exhibition space, and displays the works of
contemporary Hungarian and international artists and designers. A separate room
accommodating 80 people shows three-dimensional films about treasures of Hungarian
natural and architectural history.The Museum of Fine Arts (Szépmuvészeti
Múzeum), opposite, is Hungary’s principal fine arts gallery, containing
much to attract those interested in European and also ancient art.
Category: Attractions
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